Notice that not all hose clamps are good, the wire type cuts through hoses:Īt least this is my opinion formed through experience of different levels of headaches with hoses and clamps. I see zip ties as more than a curse than a solution since it's a problem to get them tight enough where you need them and they are impossible to open when you realize you forgot something that should have been tied down too. It's always in a tight spot where the offending clamp shall go. And it can be an effin headache to get the pliers to grip them sometimes and then also move the clamp off the seal area. They make things better than no clamp, and works fine when handling vacuum hoses or low pressure hoses, but not for high pressure like coolant. Spring type clamps are so/so from my point of view. Just plan ahead so the screw head ends up in an accessible location when mounting them.ĭon't use ordinary sockets/T-handle since that will put too much force on the seal, and you also risk that the socket sticks to the clamp and you will be standing there with a socket extender while the socket ends up in a tight spot. Use proper hose clamps and a proper tool for them. Once you shrink them on, if you have to remove the hose, you have to cut the clamp off and replace it with a new one and they are fairly expensive, at least to be throwing them away. They work flawlessly but with one drawback. No undue pressure anywhere on a plastic heater hose or radiator nipple. They shrink initially with a heat gun to grip evenly all the way around and then as the vehicle heats up, they completely fit themselves to whatever they are clamping with even pressure the entire length of the nipple. They really are excellent.Īnother good clamp is the Gates heat shrink (Power Grip) clamps. Find out some possible sources of the leak and how to fix them in the article below. I have these on my 05 LGT 5EAT and no issues ever at any hose connections. A coolant leak should be treated as a serious problem. They have a sleeve under the worm gear and a spring on the worm gear drive that allows continuous pressure without having a hot spot like the general hose clamps do. Always protect yourself with safety glasses and gloves when working with the coolant on your Mustang.I have had a lot of Chryslers over the years and the clamps are a good failure point so I generally replace them with "good" flex gear screw clamps from Ideal. An anti-freeze leak can cause the temp sensor to record high engine temperatures in a 2007 Ford Mustang. If you ignore a small coolant leak long enough, you will run out of coolant, which leads to an overheated engine and other serious, but highly avoidable, problems. This video shows you where the coolant reservoir, hoses and connections on your 2007 Mustang GT are located and the steps needed to fix minor leaks.Ī few things to note about coolant is that it is sweet tasting and highly toxic, so it can end up in the dog's stomach pretty quickly. Otherwise, your Mustang may have a radiator leak. However, a coolant leak (aka an antifreeze leak) is most likely to occur where the hoses connect to the engine or radiator. Coolant / antifreeze can leak from the reservoir, radiator or any hose, in 2007 Mustang with the 4.6 liter engine. Engine coolant (which is also called antifreeze or anti-freeze) moves through the inside of your Mustang engine and keeps it from overheating. Leaking coolant / antifreeze is one of the more common types of leaking fluid from Mustang engines. If the intake manifold is bad, it can mess with the engine’s air-fuel mixture, which can then mess with the engine’s performance. Follow the steps in this video to see how to fix minor coolant (antifreeze) leaks in your 2007 Ford Mustang.
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